Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a global network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
