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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these culinary giants is a simple salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.